Approach:
Park as for ‘Little Russia’, and the ice climbs End of the Line and Lovely Parting Gifts. Hike up the ridge on the North side of the Peskett Canyon Drainage. Rather than dropping off the ridge into the drainage as for Little Russia, continue up the ridge. Look for yellow flagging tape which will mark the way for 20 minutes.
This spot is where the creek from the farthest left gully on Mt. Elliot crosses the highway. Hike along a rail on top of the hill on the right side of the creek. Follow this for about 20 minutes to the base of the cliffs, skirt some smaller cliffs on the right.
The first route developed on the cliff in 2020 was a three day ground up effort. It’s got an adventurous feel and a lot of variety.
Overhead Hazard:
The routes in this zone are ‘fresh off the press’ Rocky Mountain limestone climbing. As such, expect some loose rock. A great deal of effort has been put into cleaning and developing this zone but it’s still new (developed in 2020).
Other Parties:
Drop your packs at the large dugout which is 30 meters south of the cliffs base, and gear up there. Climbers on P1 of Voltzwagen will potentially drop rock on the start of AA.
Descent:
Rappel straight down to a hidden designated rappel station. From here rappel the route to the big ledge. After this continue rappelling directly down as for Energizer Bunny.
Beta
P1: 15m, 5.3, 2 bolts
Scramble up to the top of the pinnacle clipping two bolts and finding a chain station on a big flat ledge. This is a good place to put climbing shoes on.
P2: 35m, 5.8, 9 bolts
Stay under the bolts and trend left to gain access to a groove that trends right into a small ledge, bring 2-3 runners to prevent rope drag.
P3: 35m, 5.8, 7 bolts
Up and trend left going through a small choss band. Eases off into the groove, anchor is just past the small tree.
P4: 20m, 5.6, gear
Follow the weakness to a bolted station.
P5: 30m, 5.9, mixed, 5 bolts
Fun traverse! Stay at the height of the station and traverse hard left. Follow the slab left through a balancy crux. Stay low unless you want the gear placements above to protect your second. Anchor is just before the mini roof.
P6: 15m, 5.8, mixed
Finish your traverse and climb straight up to a large treed ledge with a bolted station.
P7: 35m, 10-, mixed
Walk down left for three meters. Climb Up and left, some gear is available here. Your first bolt is hidden around the corner, don’t miss it! Enjoy the calf burn, slab slowly begins to get harder over the course of the next pitches.
P8: 35m, 5.10-, mixed
Straightforward slab through some loose rock will bring you to a station in the yellow bay.
P9: 35m, 5.10+
Take an exposed traverse out left, clip a bolt and commit to some hard moves. Head up through the crux and then enjoy a cool traverse left and exit to easier slab.
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