Approach:
Park as for ‘Little Russia’, and the ice climbs End of the Line and Lovely Parting Gifts. Hike up the ridge on the North side of the Peskett Canyon Drainage. Rather than dropping off the ridge into the drainage as for Little Russia, continue up the ridge. Look for yellow flagging tape which will mark the way for 20 minutes.
This spot is where the creek from the farthest left gully on Mt. Elliot crosses the highway. Hike along a rail on top of the hill on the right side of the creek. Follow this for about 20 minutes to the base of the cliffs, skirt some smaller cliffs on the right.
Overhead Hazard:
The routes in this zone are ‘fresh off the press’ Rocky Mountain limestone climbing. As such, expect some loose rock. A great deal of effort has been put into cleaning and developing this zone but it’s still new (developed in 2020).
Other Parties:
Drop your packs at the large dugout which is 30 meters south of the cliffs base, and gear up there. Climbers on P1 of Voltzwagen will potentially drop rock on the start of AA.
Route:
A long corner system that is clearly visible from the first part of the trail. It is about 200m right of the canyon entrance and is the easiest looking feature on this section of cliff. At the base of the cliff is a 4ft by 4ft rectangular boulder.
Descent:
Rappel from new rap rings onto ‘AA’; decent as per ‘AA’ with 70m rope.
Beta
P1: 5.7, 50m
Head straight up the corner for about 40m then climb good rock on the left side of the corner to a ledge below a large sloping roof. There should be a two – bolt station at the top, otherwise belay on gear.
P2: 5.5, 50m
Climb out right beneath the roof then straight up to easy ground, run the rope out a bit and belay in large cracks in the corner.
P3: 5.6, 55m
Straight up the corners to a tree belay on the right.
There is actually a 2 bolt belay at the top of pitch 1.
“Decent with 70m rope”. Is this with a single 70m or full length twins?
We rapped “AA” with a 70m single (35m raps) and it’s fine, but AA traverses around a bit. You may have more fun doubling it up, but be very careful you don’t drop past where the next anchors are.
AA, Batteries and Liquid Corner share a single tree rappel in the middle, so if you get there you have choice.
Thanks. I’m deciding on new ropes this spring. Looking seriously at 8.something triple cert ropes as we’re usually a trio.